JIRO DREAMS OF SUSHI is a documentary that communicates on several levels. Directed by David Gelb JIRO DREAMS OF SUSHI begins as the story an eighty-five year old master sushi chef who creatively makes and serves only sushi in his ten seat, sushi bar restaurant, Sukiyabashi Jiro, located in a Tokyo subway station. But this story has a number of themes that immediately surface and go beyond the act of making sushi, the art of which is beautifully shot in mouth-watering close-ups accompanied by an original score by Philip Glass.
The documentary opens with an introduction to the restaurant and archival photographs of Jiro Ono who was told to leave home at nine years old. He gets a job as an apprentice in a sushi restaurant. Early in the film he talks about, picking an occupation that you fall in love with. “ You have to love your job.” Once you learn the craft, your own talent takes you to the next level.” Jiro’s words go beyond the art of making sushi as well as his basic approach to life. In passing the documentary also introduces insight into Japanese culture.
JIRO DREAMS OF SUSHI explores Jiro’s relationship with his two sons, both of whom have worked with him starting as apprentices. The eldest son Yoshikazu seems caught in the shadow of his father who is not ready to retire. Jiro does not feel he, himself, has reached perfection yet. Yoshikazu believes that it his duty as eldest son to stay with his father to carry on his tradition. The second son was helped by the father to leave the family business and start his own restaurant.
Jiro explains that while he gets credit for creating the sushi, because he is at the counter with the customers, most of the work is done by his staff including apprentices who must train with him for ten years, a chef and Jiro’s son who is accomplished in his own right. The documentary provides a look behind the scenes in the preparation of the sushi and selection of fish at the Tsukiji Fish Market. Jiro and his son Yoshikazu have special relationships with certain fish sellers and also with a person they buy their rice from.
Sukiyabashi Jiro is the only sushi restaurant to ever be awarded the Michelin Guides three star rating. Reservations for the restaurant are made a year in advance. The cost of the full course serving of sushi is about $300. It seems like Jiro Ono and his family must be doing well however we don’t see any of their life outside the business. Gelb focuses entirely on Jiro Ono, his sons, their relationships with vendors and customers. Jiro seems to have no other life than making sushi. You wonder if his sons might have spontaneously materialized right there at Sukiyabashi Jiro one night. It’s to the director’s credit that the focus of the documentary doesn’t drift, but it might have been interesting to know, for sure, if there was any other part of their lives. Does Jiro Ono sleep on a cot in a small room some where for a few hours before coming back to the restaurant? What sacrifices must one make to achieve perfection?
JIRO DREAMS OF SUSHI is well shot but obviously in a digital video format that seems a bit grainy in the theater. This is only a factor because you want to see all the sushi creations in fully saturated colors accompanied by the lush Philip Glass score. The pace of the editing keeps the documentary moving and the film ends just about the time you think it should, but not before becoming a bit redundant. Even if you are not a lover of sushi, or an aspiring chef, there are many elements in this story that are universal to any creative endeavor. If you do enjoy sushi you will enjoy this documentary.
Currently in theaters, Netflix, DVD release in July 2012. Jiro Dreams Of Sushi 2012 – 81 Minutes – Directed by David Gelb – Magnolia Pictures
REVIEW BY J R MARTIN director of Emmy nominated, Wrapped In Steel, a documentary about the Industrial community on the Southeast side of Chicago and Emmy award winning Fired-up- Public Housing Is My Home, both documentaries aired nationally on PBS. AUTHOR CREATE DOCUMENTARY FILMS, VIDEOS AND MULTIMEDIA — See other documentary reviews by J R Martin at http://www.jrmartinmedia.com/reviews
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